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WHCvanguard - War: Vietnam
 

 

Vietnam Ruminations, Part lll
Robert Wilson
US/Philippines

 

2.

early spring --
not like home, this hole
in the wood floor

I flew by chopper from Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) to my permanent duty station, the YRBM-17, in Dong Tam , located in the fertile Mekong Delta region of the former Republic of South Vietnam. The year was 1968. I was 18 years old and had been in country a week and a half waiting for my permanent assignment. In some ways, Saigon was like any other duty station. There were lots of bars, brothels, and restaurants. All had flush toilets and running water.

During my first free weekend in Dong Tam, I went on shore leave with some of my shipmates to Mytho, a nearby port city hugging the shoreline of the Mekong River. Ashore, we made a beeline to the nearest restaurant, anxious to eat something different than base chow. Built on stilts over the river, it looked like a nice, clean place to eat lunch and forget about the war. An easy thing to do when you are new in country and haven't yet experienced the reality of war. After downing what I thought was a water buffalo sandwich ( I later found out it was dog), I asked the woman behind the counter where the restroom was. She smiled and pointed to a door behind me. I opened the door and was instantly bewildered. There was no toilet or sink. Just a hole in the wood floor leading to the river below. Welcome to the Mekong Delta, sailor!

we wore the wrong hat
that summer... even the
oxen smiled

Every day in the former republic of South Vietnam felt like summer. There were times when it reached 127 degrees Fahrenheit. The humidity in the Mekong Delta region was 100%. I remember stepping off of the airliner in Saigon when I began my tour of duty. It was like walking into a giant sauna. Jungle fatigues with steel toe combat boots and metal helmets were standard issue for servicemen stationed in South Vietnam during the War. it was essential garb, but uncomfortable to wear in the sweltering weather. The majority of the citizenry, of course, wore loose fitting silk pajamas, sandals, and hats to shield their heads from the sun. We were not accustomed to the weather. Our clothing was drenched. We drank water, soda, or beer, every hour on the hour, accompanied by salt tablets. Another reminder that we were strangers in a strange land.

a rice field
full of ghosts --
listen

The rice field is where many villagers who live in the Mekong Delta region of the former Republic of South Vietnam spend the majority of their time. Rice is the main staple, the basis for all meals. For some, the only staple.

A poor nation then and now, farming is done by hand and plow. Machinery and technology, relegated to textbooks and showcase farms. Planting and harvesting rice is back breaking work. From sun up to sun down, laborers are bent over under the hot, humid sun, their hands calloused, their skin like leather.

During the Vietnam War, villagers continued the daily ritual. It was a necessity of life, more important than a war orchestrated by politicians. Rice fields in the Mekong Delta are everywhere. Soldiers had to walk through them to get from one location to another. Aware of that, the Viet Cong placed mines and booby traps in their enemy's path. Firefights between the Viet Cong and American soldiers in and around the rice fields were commonplace. More than soil fertilized the villagers rice crops. If the rice fields could speak...

lift me, dragonfly
out of your namesake's mouth --
winter nears

Serving in Vietnam during the war was a form of gambling. You win, you get to go home. You lose, you don't. The odds were fifty/fifty. Sometimes, less. When I first arrived in-country, I felt invincible. I was 18, fresh out of high school, and didn't know what I was getting myself into. I'd watched the war, like most Americans, on television sets in wall-to-wall carpeted homes. The images on he nightly news showed the U.S. military overpowering the enemy. My family and I rooted for Uncle Sam in between bites of popcorn. This mindset changed the first time I was fired upon. The War became real. It was no longer something parading surrealistically in front of me on a glass screen. Bullets whizzed past me. Metal from exploding mortar shells fell down from the sky. Blood flowed like water. The adventure was over. I wanted to go home...In one piece.

 

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