WHF2002 Prelude 12 - Kyoto Sightseeing

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WHF2002 - Kyoto

The World Haiku Festival 2002
Basho Journey: PRELUDE (12)

Sightseeing: Kyoto

James and Patricia Hackett are something of connoisseurs of Kyoto. There is so much to see, eat and do there and we would need some guide not to be lost in the sea of possibilities. They have kindly put together a list of Kyoto "must see landmarks" and identified some photographer's web sites that members might look at. It will be finished within the hour. Though Basho reached Ohgaki at the end of his Oku-no-Hosomichi journey, Kyoto was one of his most favourite cities, with Ohtsu on the Lake Biwa nearby where Basho is buried. Kyoto Option will be a combination of sightseeing, visit to places of Basho connection and meeting local haijin. In all these, James and Patricia take us through the streets of Kyoto in our imagination.

From James and Patricia Hackett
August 19, 2002
Maui, Hawaii USA
Aloha, Haiku Friends!

Kyoto is certainly one of the world's most interesting and historic cities; it would be a shame to travel to Japan and not see its treasures. If a Kyoto visit is a possibility, you might look at beautiful photo web site of Kyoto that follows.

-- compiled by Patricia and James Hackett

A photo survey of about 30 Kyoto landmark locations in scores of stunning photos is found at: http://www.japannet.de/kyoto/kyoto.html

Or search: Impressions of Kyoto

48 excellent photos of Kyoto sites with an honest, intelligent tourist's remarks (from a visit in 2000), see:

http://fp.uni.edu/ljohnson/kyoto.htm

(this downloads more slowly on my computer than previous site)

Kyoto has so much to see and do! James and I lived in the city for several months in 1965 and 1969, and in 1993. Our major interests were the Zen temples and monasteries, traditional architecture, gardens, Zen and mingei (country/folk) arts, and food.

Kyoto is a beautiful ancient capital that survived WWII intact because the city was not bombed. Its nearly 2,000 temples, shrines, and gardens are hundreds of years old. The grid plan of major streets and the excellent public transportation make it easy get around. Each of the internationally known sites is well worth the journey, and one finds 'hidden gems' around every corner. You might discover a temple service, a celebration, or a flea market.

Some exceptional sites are described below, along with our (brief) comments. But this list doesn't include delights such the scores of shops offering antiques, pottery, paintings, temple bells, and artifacts of all kinds. There are splendid museums and temples (some with restaurants), rooftop cafes, and vendors offering all kinds of treats (including grilled items), and fresh, delicious teas and sakis are served everywhere.

Following are descriptions of locations which the Hackett's recommend, and that Susumu has mentioned in emails to WHC members. Opening hours and entrance fees mentioned may be out of date, but they do give a general idea of prices and schedules. For early risers, some temples are open/accessible at 6 AM. And several walking tours are outlined by the Japan Tourist Bureau. (One tour is described below.) Kyoto is in a basin ringed by mountains on three sides. Areas to the north and west are forested and scenic, and well worth a visit (though they are not described in the material that follows).

**CHION-IN TEMPLE
Address: Shinbashi-douri, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-531-2111
Hours: 9:00 am - 16:00 pm
Admission Fee: YEN 400

Hojo (house of priest) is a National Important Cultural Property. Sanmon (Main gate, Important Cultural Property); Tea room, Garden. Area for strolling.
Chion-in is a 17th century temple, headquarters of the Jodo-shu, or Pure Land Sect, one of the largest Buddhist sects in Japan. It has a massive gate, the largest temple bell in Japan, and some beautiful gardens. Heavily visited.

CHION-IN PHOTO SITES: Two photos (gate and bell), see:

http://www.japannet.de/kyoto/higashi/chionin.html

Or search: "Impressions of Kyoto"
Twelve beautiful photos (slow to download) are found at:

http://human.cc.hirosaki-u.ac.jp/philips/temples.htm#Chion-in

***DAITOKU-JI

Address: Ichichome, Kiyomizu, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-551-1234
Hours: 6:00 am - 16:00 pm
Admission Fee: YEN 300

Access: 10 min. walk from Kiyomizu-Gojozaka bus stop by City bus #204, 207
Founded 1324 Rinzai Zen Buddhist Sect

Daitokuji (1319) is the biggest temple for religious meditation in north Kyoto. It is also well known as the temple of Ikkyu (1394-1481), a famous Zen master who once lived there. The funeral of Nobunaga (1534-1582) was held in Daitokuji. Nobunaga was the first to attempt unification of the country, and is one of Japan's three greatest heroes.

The Zen garden of Daisen-in is by Soami.

We remember this as a favorite, huge temple complex; there is always something new to discover on each visit.

Fee at each individual temple (300-400 Yen?), but free admission to precincts (in 1993).

DAITOKU-JI PHOTO SITE: http://www.japannet.de/kyoto/naka/daitokuji.html

Or search: "Impressions of Kyoto"

**WALK the "philosopher's lane" along the hillside between the Golden Temple and Nanzen-ji (see below) in Kyoto's eastern hills; about one hour plus sightseeing. See

http://www.reggie.thinkhost.com/album.php?albid=521

*** "Golden Temple" KINKAKU-JI TEMPLE (ROKUON-JI TEMPLE)

Address: Kinkakuji-cho, Kita-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-461-0013
Hours: 9:00 am - 17:30 pm
Admission Fee: YEN 500 adult

Access: Kinkakuji-cho bus stop or Kinkakuji-cho bus stop by City bus

Buildings: Built as a villa in 1397 (Horii 4) by Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. After his death, Muso-kokushi (a famous priest, also known as a Zen gardener) established this Zen Buddhist temple of Rokuon-ji.

KINKAKU-JI PHOTO SITE: See 3 photos at:

http://www.japannet.de/kyoto/higashi/ginkakuji.html

Stunning building, but perhaps 'static;' garden by Soami is famous. Located near the "philosopher's lane," in NE hills of Kyoto where the Hackett's resided.

**Heian Shrine (eastern Kyoto) HEIAN-JINGU

Hours: 8:30 am - 17:30 pm
Admission Fee to Precincts: NONE
Admission Fee to garden, YEN 600

In front of this Shinto shrine there is a enormous concrete Horii (1929), with the imperial chrysanthemum in gold. A bit farther down the road is the main gateway, a two-story, blue tiled structure, painted red; two corridors connect to the gate on its east and west sides.

Before you enter the shrine's gate you wash up, as is traditional before entering shrines. The roofed water basin is on left of the entrance; through the gate is a wide courtyard covered with white sand.

Kyoto was the Imperial capital of Japan from 794 to 1867. During the Meiji period the imperial household (and government) moved to Tokyo. To compensate for this loss, the city constructed Heian-jingu about 100 years ago, in celebration of the 1,100 year anniversary of Kyoto.

The shrine is a scaled down replica of the Daigoku-den (Palace of the Hall of State) of the original capital. The shrine is dedicated to the Kyoto's founder (794), Emperor Kum (737-806). Entombed here is the last emperor to have a permanent residence in Kyoto, Emperor Komei.

HEIAN-JINGU PHOTO SITE: http://www.japannet.de/kyoto/kyoto.html

Or search: "Impressions of Kyoto"

***IMPERIAL PALACE (Gosho)

Address: Karasuma-Marutamachi, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-211-1211
Admission Fee: unknown

Access: Imadegawa subway station. Karasuma-ichijo bus stop by City bus No.51

This had been a temporary palace and after the coronation of Emperor Kogen in 1331 (Genko1, end of Kamakura Period) it became the Imperial Palace. After being razed by fire in 1788 and in 1854, the last rebuilding was completed in 1855 (Ansei 2)

Open: You need reservation to enter in the Palace area. Apply for a ticket at the Imperial Household Agency (100 m west from Gosho). Perhaps apply a few days in advance?

IMPERIAL PALACE PHOTO SITE: See 8 photos with autumn foliage at:

http://www.japannet.de/kyoto/naka/sento.html

Or search: "Impressions of Kyoto"

****KATSURA IMPERIAL VILLA (south eastern Kyoto)
Hours: Monday through Friday, 8:45 am -12:00 pm and 13:00 pm - 16:00 pm.
Phone: 075/221-1215
Hours: Katsura may not be open in the month of September.
Admission Fee: None/by Permission/Reservation Only (*see below)

Access: Located about a 15-minute walk from Katsura Station on the Hankyu railway line, or a 30-minute bus ride from Kyoto Station (take bus no. 33 to the Katsura Rikyu-mae stop) and then a 5-minute walk. Metro (¥230, Imadegawa station) to the imperial palace.

Gorgeous scenic-style garden with lakes and ponds. Very large, with several buildings/pavilions. Probably the finest garden in the Kyoto area. Those with a passion for traditional Japanese architecture or gardens will want to visit.
However, Katsura may not be open in the month of September. Inquire through the Imperial Household Agency Office (tel. 075/221-1215). No English is spoken and no reservations are accepted by phone, but one can call to get information.

Advance permission to visit is required (visits are free), and you must apply for permission in person at the Imperial Household Agency Office. (Apply well before your desired visiting date and hour.) Tours seem to be limited to groups of four persons, and are conducted in Japanese only (but an English-language video is shown).

"MUST SEE" KATSURA WEB SITE:

A comprehensive, beautiful site is offered by the Getty Art Museum (Los Angeles) site:

http://www.getty.edu/artsednet/images/BM/Katsura/gallery.html

****KAWAI KANJIRO MUSEUM (KAWAI KANJIRO BIJUTSU-KAN):

The artistic home and studio of famous potter/designer Kawai Kanjiro (1890-1966)

Hours: 10:00 am - 17:00 pm, closed Mon.
Phone: 075-561-3585
Admission Fee: YEN 900 adult

One block west and south of Higashioji/Gojo in NE Kyoto

Recommended as a 'must see' by specialists in Asian architecture, this is one of five traditional houses in Japan highly recommended for visiting. In 1964 the home was incredibly beautiful.

KAWAI MUSEUM PHOTO SITE:

A dozen color photos may be seen at:

http://arch.hannam.ac.kr/~hpw/japan/j-house/kk.htm

**KIOMIZU-DERA
A UNESCO World Heritage Site

A Hillside temple in Southeast foothills near group hotel.

Hours: 6:00 am - 18:00 pm
Phone: 075-551-1234
Admission Fee: YEN 300 ?

Transportation: JR Tokaido Line or Tokaido Shinkansen Line to Kyoto Station, transfer to Kyoto City Bus to the Kiyomizumichi stop or the Gojozaka stop.

We remember a climb up the hillside, views from the highest temple.

KIYOMIZU-DERA PHOTO SITE:

http://www.japannet.de/kyoto/higashi/kiyomizu.html

Or search: "Impressions of Kyoto: Kiyomizu"

http://travel.roughguides.com/planning/journalEntryActivity.asp?JournalID=8059&EntryID=14662

See 3 photos at:

http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/orion/eng/hstj/higasi/kiyomizu.html

(I had difficulty downloading this site)

**KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, KYOTO (KYOTO KOKURITSU KINDAI BIJUTSUKAN)

Address: The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto Enshoji-cho, Okazaki, Sakyoto-ku, Kyoto 606-8344 (Located in eastern Kyoto, south of Heian Shrine)

Hours: 9:30 am - 17:00 pm (admission until 16:30)
Every Friday evening from April 27 to October 19, opening hours will be extended until 20:00 (admission until 19:30) Closed on Mondays (except when Monday is a holiday, Tuesday will be closed instead), and between December 28 and January 4, 2002. Opening hours and closing days are subject to change.

Phone: (075) 761-4111
Phone Service:(075) 761-9900
Admission Fee: YEN 420 (students YEN 130) (*Permanent Collection Only)

.....*Permanent collection admission is free to handicapped visitors and their attendants and visitors over 70 years of age (I.D. required). There is a separate admission fee for special exhibitions, which includes admission to the permanent collection

Access: From JR and Kintetsu Kyoto Station (A1 spot): Take the City Bus 5 and get off at Kyoto-kaikan-bijutsukan-mae. From Hankyu Karasuma, Kawaramachi and Keihan Sanjo Stations: Take the City Buses 5, 32, 46 and get off at Kyoto-kaikan-bijutukan-mae. Other City Buses: Take the City Buses 201, 202, 203, 206 and get off at Higashiyama-Nijo, 5 minutes walk. Subway Tozai Line: 5 minutes walk from Higashiyama Station.

Paintings, ceramics, sculpture, prints and photos by Japanese and foreign artists;
Hours: 9:30-16:30, every Fri. till 20:00; closed Monday (if a national holiday, closed the next day)

The Buddhist and Shinto statues are splendid (but were not displayed to best advantage in 1964).

http://www.momak.go.jp/menu_e.html

Note that one may walk the "philosopher's lane" along the hillside between the Golden Temple and Nanzen-ji.

See: http://www.reggie.thinkhost.com/album.php?albid=521

****NANZEN-JI TEMPLE AND GARDENS (eastern hills)

Address: Fukuji-cho, Nanzenji, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City (in the eastern hills)
Phone: 075-771-0365
Hours: 8:40 am - 17:00 pm
Admission Fee: no charge for precincts, but fee (300/400YEN) at each individual temple.

Access: Hsshoji-cho bus stop by City bus.

Established in Late Kamakura Period (1293); buildings have been rebuilt.
This is a Rinzai Zen Buddhist temple. Splendid, huge Sanmon (main gate); many temples in the area. The Zen garden of Konchi-in temple's tea house was designed by famous tea master Enshu (early 1600s). Vast temple complex with beautiful views internally, and of the city. Allow about 1-2 hours, and be aware that the visitor climbs a mountain side during the visit.

NANZEN-JI PHOTO SITE:

http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/orion/eng/hstj/sakyo/nanzenji.html

***NIJO CASTLE

Address: 541, Nijojo-cho, Nijo-dori horikawanishi-iru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi
Telephone: 075-841-0096
Fax: 075-802-6181
Admission Fee: YEN 600

Access: Nijojo-machi, nijo-dori, Horikawa-Nishi-iru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi
Close to Nijojo-mae stop on the City Bus Service route. (2 min. walk from Nijo-jo-mae Station of Subway Tozai Line.)

Handsome temple(s); gigantic screens of pine trees and eagles in the first building (painted by Tanyu, 1602-1674) is a highlight. Huge site of 70 acres. Heavily visited.

NIJO CASTLE PHOTO SITE:

See about 15 photos at: http://www.pbase.com/ralf/kyoto&page=6

Explore a digital tour with commentary at:

http://www.digitalcity.gr.jp/openlab/agentpage.html (I did not view this site)

http://www.raubacapeu.net/people/yves/pictures/1998/11/japan-kyoto-199811-09.html

****RYOAN-JI TEMPLE

Address: 13, Goryonoshita-cho, Ryoanji, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto (western Kyoto)

A UNESCO World Heritage Site

Hours: Mar. through Nov. 8:00-17:00
Phone: 075-463-2216
Fee: YEN 400? adult

Access: JR Tokaido Line or Tokaido Shinkansen Line to Kyoto Station, transfer to Kyoto City Bus or JR Bus 59 to the Ryoanjimae stop.

Established in 1405 (Houtoku 2). The temples were burnt at the war of Ohniin in 1797 (Kansei 9), and rebuilt. The temple belongs to the Myoshinji Group of Rinzai Zen sect Buddhism.

Very famous for its Zen garden. A flat garden (with gravel and stones) modeled on the features of sea, lake, and pond. The views are "borrowed landscape" consisting of distant trees/views.

RYOAN-JI PHOTO SITE:

See 3 photos (of famous walled portion & raked gravel) at:

http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/orion/eng/hstj/ukyo/ryoanji.html

Or search: "Impressions of Kyoto"

*SANJU-SANGEN-DO (1001 Kannons)

Shrine with 1001 statues of kannon (goddess of mercy), plus huge gods of war and thunder.

Hours: 8:00-17:00
Admission Fee: YEN 600

Access: Close to WHF2002 group's hotel

SANJU-SANGEN-DO PHOTO SITE:

See 5 photos at:

http://www.haas.berkeley.edu/Courses/Summer1999/E296-3/trip/Japan/Kyoto.htm

Soooo many statues.....

______________________________________________________________

*** "Silver Temple" GINKAKU-JI TEMPLE (JISHO-JI TEMPLE)

Address: Ginkakuji-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: 075-711-5725
Hours: 8:30 am - 17:00 pm
Admission Fee: YEN 500

Access: Ginkakuji bus stop by Kyoto-bus; Ginkakuji-michi bus stop by City-bus #2.

Buildings: Muromachi Period. Built by Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, kannon-den, Togu-do (a famous room named Dojinsai in which the floor boards sing like crickets.).

Garden by Soami, d. 1525, is very beautiful.

"Silver Temple" PHOTO SITE:

http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/orion/eng/hstj/histj.html

_______________________________________________________________

**URASENKE FOUNDATION TEA CEREMONY RESEARCH CENTRE (CHADO SHIRYO-KAN):

Famous tea ceremony site (traditional architecture); headquarters of the historic Urasenke School of tea.

Phone: 431-6474.
Hours: 9:30 am - 16:30 pm, closed Monday
Admission Fee: YEN 500 (students YEN400)
Access: On Horikawa, north of Teranouchi

Exquisite buildings and gardens; calm (in 1964), refined to the "nth" degree.
URASENKE PHOTO SITES:

See : http://www.kyotoguide.com/e-p18-ud/

6 photos at:

http://www.jgarden.org/gardens.asp?TAB=photos&ID=30

About 10 photos & text at:

http://www.urasenke.or.jp/eframe.html

**WALK the "philosopher's lane" along the hillside between the Golden Temple and Nanzen-ji in Kyoto's eastern hills; one hour(?) plus sightseeing.

See: http://www.reggie.thinkhost.com/album.php?albid=521

***WALKING TOUR OF KYOTO : An all day stroll through Higashiyama-ku

See: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/kyoto/0080010008.html
(text only; no photos)

Walk includes many interesting places, including several mentioned above: potter Kawai's house, Kyoto museum, Gion district, plus Kyoto craft center and other sites. Allow six hours for stopping/eating/shopping. Recommends particular tea houses and rooftop cafes along the route.

Note that the Gion district is another internationally recognized architectural treasure.

See Gion photos at:

http://arch.hannam.ac.kr/~hpw/japan/gion/gion.htm

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