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WHF2002
Recollections - Deborah
Russell |
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Losing
Myself In Kyoto...
Deborah Russell
Baltimore, MD |
My experiences in Japan were
nothing less than remarkable. Our journey took us to some of Japan's most
beautiful lands. Besides the joy of seeing golden terraced rice fields, Saigyo's
willow, the immaculate temples and gardens, the mountains seemed always present
- majestic and at times, quite mysterious. Of the Three Mountains Of Dewa, Mount
Hurago was especially beautiful to me. Hurago was the religious Mecca of the
Kamakura period.
Upon our arrival, it was almost as
if I were walking in some other time; a time distant and holy. The shafts of sun
formed great and thick paths between the trees. As I walked upward along this
road, the height and breadth of the trees became more comforting and more
powerful. Walking this narrow road toward the temple, a deep and growing feeling
of something ancient and worthy seemed to occupy my attention.
Hurago is the center of a great
New Year's celebration, where thousands of people gather to ring in the New
Year, to ring out the past and celebrate renewed spirit. It would be wonderful
to see this event take place, I can only imagine the thunder of the enormous
temple bell.
I was fascinated with the
architecture, but more with the atmosphere. Within these few hundred people
milling about, there was a great quiet and sense of solitude. Even the sun
appeared to know where to shine and where to cast shadow.
cool, green moss
the scent of sun
quickens my step
But it was in Kyoto that I found
my heart. This was a place that seemed to speak to me from every angle. Of
course, we stayed in an ideal location, the Kyoto Park Hotel, across from the
National Museum of Art and very near several temples. The hotel was within
walking distance of several shops and restaurants. My first morning in Kyoto --
Wow. I looked out from the cafe window and saw a beautiful koi pond with large,
colourful fish. This was such a nice way to greet each day.
rainy day
the colour splashes
like sun
I felt comfortable with Japan and
I had a little knowledge of how to travel and enough of a concept of monetary
exchange to be somewhat independent, so I felt more like myself. We traveled to
Hiei, and enjoyed a wonderful afternoon in the Monet Gardens. I met a young
woman, a college student who was employed there. She spoke a little English and
we spent a few moments talking about the plants and how they were the same
plants as in my garden, only with different names. I first saw her among the
Brown-eyed Susans. We photographed each other and exchanged names.
garden girl
smiles among cosmos
translations blossom
Although the gardens were quite
beautiful, it was the perspective from the mountain that impressed me most. I
could see Osaka and Kyoto in the distant mist. It was really quite a remarkable
view. Another thing that was most impressive were the tall pines. The lengthy
thin trunks were quite bare with triangular foliage at the very tops - these
were the trees I had seen so many times on Japanese screens, and just prior to
my trip, in the Japanese Pavilion at the Los Angeles Museum of Modern Art.
beneath the pines
a blackbird caucus
adjourns
Our Kyoto haiku group, which
consisted of Susumu Takiguchi, Brian Selby, Debi Bender and myself left the
gardens in the direction of the temple, further down the mountain. My experience
there, was wonderful. I met a female monk, who spoke English. She was warm,
genuine and honorable. She accompanied me through the museum which has been
declared a National Treasure. It was a rewarding experience, and quite
memorable. I was fortunate to have a personal guide. As I was leaving, I
experienced a pure moment of departure.
morning sun
i bow to you
this path of light
I had lost the haiku group,
somewhere in the mountain, but had a basic knowledge of it, so it was not a
problem. I engaged some college girls in conversation, and explained that I was
'lost', and we laughed at my situation and at our failing attempts at
conversation. They spoke very little English, but enough that we managed to
communicate through hand gestures, nodding and laughing. I called them "my
saving angels." We took the bus back to Kyoto. My special angel said I
should stay on the bus for two more stops, and not to worry.
Soon, I began to see many things I
recognized and knew when to get off the bus to take a cab. I arrived at the
hotel a few hours before the rest of the group, so I decided to have a late
lunch and go exploring. I felt I had not lost myself enough.
The following day, I decided to be
on my own. I had planned to visit the National Museum of Art, a pottery museum
and just explore the streets and temples. I managed quite well and met many
wonderful people that day. I was nearly two and a half hours early for the
pottery museum, so I began to stroll down the narrow streets. I found myself
outside the window of an artist. I could see him, through the slats of the
blind, working intently. I thought perhaps I could photograph him, without
disturbing his work. As I was about to press the button, he looked up suddenly,
but as if he knew I was there. I was embarrassed, but asked, by signaling to my
camera, if it was okay. He was smiling and called to his wife to invite me in.
He introduced himself as Shuhei Saitoh and his wife, Mitsue. They are both
artists, Shuiei being a second generation silk painter. I admired their work and
their beautiful, traditional Japanese home. We had a wonderful morning.
We spoke with the aid of two
dictionaries, an electronic translator and lots of gestures. It was interesting
how we communicated so clearly about poetry, art materials, techniques,
painting, sculpture, music and lithography. They offered me ceremonial tea, and
Mitsue photographed Shuhei and I together with Buddha. I was very pleased to
have been an unexpected guest. It was certainly one of the highlights of the
Basho journey for me.
between us
nothing -
Buddha
Photographs by Deborah Russell
